Saturday, March 12, 2011

Good things come in small packages. Nara.

Panoramic view of Daibutsu-den (Great Buddha Hall), Todai-ji Temple
Photo by Thomas Roth

Overshadowed by Kyoto, Nara is often overlooked by tourists.  Though much smaller in size than Kyoto, Nara is the second only to Kyoto in number of ancient attractions. It has 5 sites listed on the UNESCO World Heritage list, including the oldest wooden structure in the world, Horyu-ji Temple and Todai-ji Temple which houses the largest Buddha statue in Japan.  Nara is just a short train ride away from Kyoto so I've slotted in a day trip from Kyoto to see this small but historic city.

Nara was the capital of Japan from 710 AD to 784 AD, before either Kyoto or Tokyo. The original city, Heijo-kyo was modelled after the capital of Tang Dynasty China which is present-day Xi'an so the streets are laid out in an easy to navigate grid.

Situated to the east of city center is Nara Park which is within walking distance from the train station.  All the major sites are pretty much located inside the perimeter of the park.

I don't know how many historic sites will be able to see in one day but there are three that are must-sees.

Todai-ji Temple

Todai-ji Temple is reputedly the largest wooden building in the world.   In 743 AD, Emperor Shomu ordered the construction of a giant Buddha statue to protect the people from the epidemics and disasters that were common at that time. The 15 meters high and 437 tonne Daibutsu  (Great Buddha) was completed in 751 AD and remains one of the largest bronze statue in the world.  The Daibutsu-den, which houses the statue of Buddha, is said to be the largest wooden building in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site



A popular attraction of Todaiji is a pillar inside the temple which has a hole in its base the same size as the Daibutsu's nostril. It is said that those who can squeeze through this opening will be granted enlightenment in their next reincarnation.  They say that children can squeeze through the hole ensuring enlightenment for them and that only the skinniest of adults can make their way through.  Hmmmm......I wonder if I can? :-)


The Daibutsu-den contains four other giant statues one of which is a statue of the Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of medicine and healing. Touching a part of the Yakushi Nyorai and then the corresponding part of your own body is said to heal any ailments you have there. Pretty scary looking if you as me!



Kofuku-ji Temple

Kofuku-ji Temple is one of Nara's most beautiful and historic temples and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The temple complex was built in 669 AD by the Fujiwara family.  The temple was moved from Yamashina in Kyoto to its present location in 710 AD.  Along with Todai-ji Temple, Kofukuji Temple is important in the establishment and acceptance of Buddhism in Japan.

Kofuku-ji Temple is noted for its fine 50 meter tall five story pagoda and a three story pagoda. The five-story pagoda, which was completely restored in 1427, is the second tallest pagoda in Japan, behind the 55 meter tall pagoda at Toji Temple in Kyoto. The three story pagoda dates from the early 12th century and houses some Buddhist paintings.

The Kofuku-ji Temple also has several buildings, the Tokondo and Kokuhokan which contain arguably the best collection of Japanese sculpture in the world and octagonal buildings containing yet more ancient Buddhist treasures: the Hokuendo (Northern Octagonal Hall) and the Nanendo (Southern Octagonal Hall).

Kasuga Grand Shrine

Kasuga Grand Shrine is a Shinto shrine. Established in 768 AD and rebuilt several times over the centuries, it is the shrine of the Fujiwara Clan. The interior is famous for its many bronze lanterns.

The Shrine, and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest near it, are inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The path to Kasuga Grand Shrine is lined with over  a thousand stone lanterns.




Horyu-ji Temple

Horyu-ji Temple is Buddhist temple and another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Additionally, the Japanese government lists several of its structures, sculptures and artifacts as National Treasures.

The temple complex contains several buildings of which one of the most significant is the five story tall pagoda is 32.45 meters in height and is one of the oldest wooden buildings in the world. The wood used in the center pillar of the pagoda is estimated to have been felled in 594 AD. 

The kondo, located side-by-side to the pagoda, is another one of the oldest wood buildings in the world. The two storied hall, which measures 18.5 meters by 15.2 meters, houses the famous Shaka Triad, together with a bronze Yakushi and Amida Nyorai statues, and other national treasures.

The Deer!

Historic landmarks aside, Nara is also known for its deer that roam freely throughout the town, especially Nara Park. According to the legendary history of Kasuga Grand Shrine, a mythological god Takemikazuchi arrived in Nara on a white deer to guard Nara. Since then the deer have been regarded as heavenly animals, protecting the city and the country.  Snack vendors sell "shika sembei" (deer biscuits) to visitors so they can enjoy feeding the deer.  One look at that cute Bambi face and I'll be plopping down yen for those deer biscuits.  I'm such a sucker for a cute animal face :-)



* Nara Walk.  Meet the guide at JR Nara Station. Daily tours start 10:15 everyday, except for Dec.21-Feb.28. Tour covers popular destinations around Nara Park: Todai-ji Temple, Kofuku-ji Temple, and Kasuga Grand Shrine. Reservations not necessary for regular tours.